March 3: Fergie


1. After a deliberately slow and careful morning of oatmeal, and an afternoon walking about, we successfully located an Emirates office and purchased cheap tickets to Dubai. This was no thanks to the driver, who had no idea where to go. ‘Take us to the Emirates office.’ ‘Look, there is the university!’

2. We got dolled up for a big night out on the town, doing as the locals do. Cafés were full of smoothies and narghile water-pipe smoking. These are places to see and be seen. Along the way, we had the great pleasure of meeting Laila, a lovely Syrian woman from New York City.

3. We were in stitches – nearly in tears – as we got dragged into an absurd debate over whether Fergie died of a drug overdose four months ago. One of our companions was absolutely, positively, 100% sure this had happened and was willing to bet large sums. Could I take a man for his money like that? I should have.